Drifting the Mouth Part II
Nice 40” caught in 2021 drifting a live mackerel!!
Ok, so you've already read Drifting the Mouth Part I and got acquainted with the basic safety precautions before venturing out into the open ocean. I felt that was important to address because the mouth, in particular, can be very dangerous. Bad things can happen quickly. It serves everyone's best interest to prepare for the worst possible scenario. That being said, if your boating systems are working correctly, you have the required safety equipment, and people on the boat know how to respond in an emergency, then you're ready to give it a shot! Now, on to the fishing.
This blog will cover drifting live or dead bait from a boat. The techniques, gear, and concepts discussed will work in numerous other portions of the river and the Hampton and Parker Rivers.
Rod and Reel Combos
You can use either spinning or conventional gear for this type of fishing. Honestly, it's a matter of personal preference, but I tend to use conventional gear. While a baitrunner style combo may be easier to use, the ability to feel the bite and "drop back" ease of a conventional reel makes it a deadly weapon for experienced anglers that you can't mimic with a spinning reel. Conventional reels also have an advantage in cranking power and line capacity compared to spinning reels. Regardless of what you choose, you want your setup to be lightweight as you're holding the rod all day, and you want to be comfortable.
Conventional Combos
Conventional combos allow for more control
For conventionals, I use small lever drag reels. The lever drag design gives us more versatility than a typical star drag. Although star drags will work great for drifting, the lever drags can double duty to be great live bait trolling reels. I have used a wide variety of reels over the years and have recently outfitted my boat with Seigler SGs. Check out our blog Seigler SG Review to see what characteristics I look for in a conventional reel and why I chose Seigler. For our members, you can find a breakdown of the Top 10 Small Lever Drag Reels in the PDF section to compare various manufacturers to make your own choice.
You can use either mainline type for your striper reels, either braid or mono. Mono is much easier to deal with when tying knots and undoing tangles, but there is a trade-off with a lack of sensitivity to feel the bite. When using mono on a private boat, you can get away with 20# and fill your entire spool. The benefits of braided line include increased sensitivity, more capacity, and its thinner diameter allows you to scale down your tackle. The disadvantages of braid are you should tie on a short mono leader, poor abrasion resistance, price, and you have to be good at tying knots!
I switched to braid (on my charter rods, I always used braid personally)about 4 four years ago and haven't looked back. Lately, I have been using Power Pro Depth Hunter Braid, which changes color every 25 feet. It has made setting my trolling spread very easy by letting out a certain number of colors to make sure I have my baits exactly where I want them. I spool my reels differently than most. I don't see the advantage of having 400 yards of line for stripers, so I fill up my reel with 20# mono backing and leave enough room for a 250 yard "top shot" of the braid. When the braid gets low due to cut back during the season, I only have to replace the braid and not the mono. To mitigate nasty tangles and aid when leadering fish into the boat, I tie on a 20 ft section of 30# mono via an FG Knot (other good knots for this connection are the Slim Beauty and Uni-Uni knot). This leader also helps with abrasion resistance should you be fishing around rocks and is easier to tie off to our terminal tackle.
For conventional rods, there are so many options. Your best choices depend on the type of line you use. If you use braid, you should choose a rod with a moderate (medium) action. Braid does not stretch and can tear the hook out of the fish's mouth if you use too stiff a rod. Using a softer rod with a deep bend allows the rod to absorb the head shakes of a cow striper to mitigate the no-stretch properties of the braided line. Most rod manufacturer ratings in the 12# - 25# class are ideal for this style of striped bass fishing. I also prefer shorter rods in the 6'6" length as they are easier to move around the boat without bumping into everything!
There are many types of conventional rods, but the new Slow Pitch Jigging craze stemming from Japan has led to recent innovations in the rod market. A slow pitch style rod is ideal for live bait fishing for stripers due to its thin blank diameter, lightweight, extended rear handle (to hold under your arm comfortably), and moderate actions. After building my own rods for years, I found the Tsunami Slow Pitch Jigging Rod (TSSPJC-681H) to be more than adequate for my needs. The rods are tough, sensitive, and retail for a great price ($99). A bonus is these are one of the few production rods that are "Acid Wrapped." Acid Wrapped means the guides start on top of the blank like a regular conventional rod but then spiral around the blank to the bottom. It looks funky, but give them a try, and you will never go back to a "regular" rod. The design gives you an advantage when a fish is up and down under the boat. Pressure is now pulling down instead of pushing from the top. That means you have more control of the fish's head, and your reel doesn't want to "twist" in your hand. An acid-wrapped rod is truly a pleasure to fish with and should be more popular than they are. We will be doing another detailed blog on an acid-wrapped rod's advantages and disadvantages. (Side note, go up one size higher in line rating for these style rods like 20 - 50# range)
Spinning Combos
Baitrunner Spinning Reels are easy to use and versatile.
For those who prefer spinning reels, it would behoove you to use a reel with a "baitrunner" function. A baitrunner is a secondary drag system to allow a fish to eat the bait and run with little tension. Then, with a flip of a switch, the main drag engages and the fight is on. I use Shimano Thunnus's on my boat because they seem to hold up the longest for the rigors of chartering. Still, for the typical recreational angler, the Shimano Baitrunner series has caught a LOT of bass over time and proven its worth. Don't sleep on the Okuma Coronado as well! It's a little bigger size-wise but has an incredibly smooth drag system and significant relative cranking power for a spinning reel. I use 6000 size reels for the more oversized gearing, but a 4000 size would suit most people who want to fish a little lighter. When it comes to spinning reels, I always fish braided line for the extra capacity and casting efficiency. I spool these reels full with 30# braid and a short 5 ft 30# mono leader before I tie on my rig.
There are many options when choosing your spinning rods. Since we are fishing braid and circle hooks, I like a moderate action rod in the 12 - 20# range. I use 7 ft spinning rods for the versatility of casting lures or snag hooks for pogies. I like the Star Stellar Lite SG1020ISM for this style of fishing for its soft bend and rugged backbone; however, many options would work, and it is a matter of personal preference as to which manufacturer you choose to fish.
Let’s Go Fishing
At this point, let's assume you have a livewell full of mackerel and are ready to get fishing! The outgoing tide is generally the most common time to drift the mouth; thus, we will focus our strategy here based on the ebb. We will discuss the incoming tide later in the blog.
Your leader setup should be the same whether you fish spinning or conventional gear. Before you tie anything on, make sure you slide an egg sinker onto your main line. We want our baits to be bouncing along the bottom as we drift. Depending on the speed of the drift, egg sinkers can vary from 0.5 ounces up to 3 ounces. I usually start with 1.5 ounces weight on an average day and adjust from there. Very rarely do I find the need for a 3 ounce. After you slide on your egg sinker, it's time to tie on your circle hook leader. My leaders consist of 130# Spro Power Swivel tied to a 30-35" piece of 40# Seaguar STS Fluorocarbon leader connected via a uni knot. At the end of the leader, I secure an 8/0 Mustad Demon Perfect Inline Circle Hook 1X, also connected with a uni knot. A few notes on my leader setup:
I prefer the Mustads because of their wide gap and short shank compared to other brands. They seem to bite and hold the corner of the jaw better than other brands. I have also had other brands snap on me but have yet had that issue with Mustad. Plus, I can bulk order them in packs of 100, making it more efficient to buy and store. If you plan on switching brands, go up one size. For example, if you use 7/0 Gamakatsu hooks, you will want an 8/0 Mustad for similar hook size, but the Mustad will have a more significant gap and shorter shank.
I use a little known Seaguar fluorocarbon designed for trout and salmon. I believe the company has recently rebranded the STS line as "Inshore" fluorocarbon. It's thinner and more abrasion resistant than their other models but slightly stiffer. The best part is the price! They come in 100-yard spools (not 25) for under $20 each! I have been using this line for four years with no problems.
The ingredients to a basic striped bass live bait rig.
Ok, now it's time to bait up. There are many different ways to hook a mackerel that can be situationally dependent. I have been going straight up through the top jaw almost exclusively more recently when drifting. I feel the bait tracks better, stays on the hook better, and doesn't bury itself back as much as when you hook it through the nostrils. Nostril hooking will keep baits alive longer, but they can be pulled on a sideways plane and not have as much as a natural presentation. You do not want to close the mouth shut by going through both lips as this will restrict water flow through the mackerel's gills, and they will die faster. When drifting, hooking a bait on the back or by the anal fin is a no-go. You're just going to pull the bait sideways through the water and give an awful presentation as the bait will spin throughout your drift.
As you pull into the mouth, you can start your drift anywhere inside the jetties. I start as high as the Green #7 buoy and work my way out. There are two ways to start your drift depending on the type of boat you have.
For center consoles,
Fish all anglers off to one side (I typically go port because it's comfortable for me to work from that position). You do not want people on both sides as lines will get tangled, with a higher risk of catching your propeller.
Turn the boat perpendicular to the drift and stay on the wheel and throttle. As the captain, you are in control of the drift and should constantly be crabbing the boat to stay broadside and have the line angles coming straight off the side of the boat and not running to the bow or stern. I also keep my bow slightly at 1:00 to nose into upcoming swells to make the drift more comfortable.
Anglers must be aware of their surroundings and move around if their lines start crossing.
For walkarounds, sport fishers, and downeast boats
Point your bow east (towards the ocean) and fish your anglers off the stern. There is not enough lateral space to fish 4 or 5 people along one side.
Setting up this way also gives you the advantage of not having lines directly under your prop.
The captain at the wheel is just bumping in and out of gear to keep the lines straight.
You're baited up, the boat slows down to get into position, and now it's time to get fishing! With the mackerel on your hook, drop it to the bottom. With a conventional reel, put the drag in free spool with your thumb, apply light pressure on the spool (to avoid backlash) and let the bait go down until the weight hits bottom. You will know when you hit bottom when the line stops unraveling for a split second. At this point, keeping the reel in free spool, apply just enough thumb pressure such that line is not coming out as you drift, but light enough so when a striper hits, he cannot feel like pressure as he swallows the bait. You will continue your drift holding your rod tip at a slight downward angle, with your thumb lightly over the spool anticipating a bite. For baitrunner reels, open the spool (or cast. Casting is an advantage of spinning reels, mainly when fishing the corners of the bow and stern. You can pitch baits forward and back to widen your spread. If you can cast a conventional reel, you could also do the same) and let the weight go to the bottom. Once the line slacks up for a second, flip the bail and engage the baitrunner lever. You should have a preset setting such that the line is not coming out as you drift but light enough so a fish can run.
As you drift, pay attention to what is happening at the end of your line. When fish are near, you will feel the mackerel freaking out most of the time. This should alert you that a possible hit is coming, and it should reset your focus! If you feel heavy dead, weight dragging, you have most likely been weeded up or foul hooked your mackerel. Reel it up and check your bait, and re-deploy. Also, keep an eye on your depth finder as the mouth has many hills and valleys at different parts. You will have to "drop back" a little more line as you drift to remain in the strike zone. I will fish until my line angle gets about 45 degrees, then reel up and reset. If you have too flat of an angle, chances are you are dragging and will catch weeds. You should be feeling occasional bumps of the bottom as you drift to let you know where your bait is sitting.
You Got a Bite!
It can come as quite a shock when you get that first bite if you're not paying attention. No matter which style of reel you are using, it is of utmost importance to keep the rod at a downward angle and point the rod directly in the direction the fish is running. If your rod tip is at a sharp angle, you will pull the hook often.
When using a conventional reel, I let the fish rip off line to position the mackerel in its mouth. The first tap you feel is the striper striking the bait to stun it and reposition it for the kill shot. Stripers like to eat baitfish headfirst, so it glides easily down their throats. That is why we let them run for a bit, to get the mackerel going headfirst into the striper's mouth. This is why I like conventional reels because you can easily feel what is happening down there. I let the fish run off its initial taking, and I "feel" my spool. As the striper hits, the spool will have a little "overrun," which causes a slight, loose loop as the line tears off. With my rod pointed low and pointing at the fish, that's when I engage my lever drag. As I slide the drag up, I slowly reel until I have a deep bend in the rod, and the drag starts screaming. Fish on! The concept is the same when using a baitrunner, but you won't have the precision to feel like a conventional. I usually hold the rod low, and when it starts moving pretty fast, engage the baitrunner switch, reel slow until the rod bends, then fight the fish. I keep all the other anglers in the water when hooked up because we are on a pile, and we want multiple hook-ups. To do this properly, you must communicate intentions as people walk around the boat following fish around! There are a few other cool tricks to do at this moment that we go over in our Members Only Part III of Drifting the Mouth.
My first few drifts are usually longer until I can find piles of fish to hammer on. I mentioned earlier that I start as high as the Green 7 buoy and drift out to the 30-foot depths just outside the Green 3 buoy for a few drifts to get a lay of the land. Once we start catching fish, I will shorten my drifts to target the areas I am having the most success. Take advantage of the opportunity to be where the fish are!
Now that you had a successful first drift, it's time to reset. Let's take a minute and discuss the proper way to come back into the mouth without creating more of a shit show! There is a "path" that captains and those "in the know" use. At the end of your drift, as the waves have subsided, head due north just outside the Red #2 Buoy to clear all the waves and boat traffic. Then, pivot the boat and head back towards just inside the north jetty at a slight southwest angle. This area has the shortest span of big waves compared to other parts of the mouth and has a "calm" spot to take a moment and hang to time your waves and other boat traffic. Get a feel for the rhythm of the waves, and then take your shot. Be especially mindful that the waves will try to push the stern of your boat, and you have to be hyper-aware to maintain control so that you don't flip the boat. I try to "surf" the boat in when aggressive waves are prevalent. You can accomplish this by adjusting your throttle to stay on top and keeping control of your boat. The worst thing that can happen is when you fall down the backside of a wave, and your stern kicks out and gets your boat broadside in the trough. Not. Fun. At. All.
The green line is the appropriate way to re-enter the mouth when setting a new drift.
At this point, you can reset a productive drift in the same spot or try a new path. The key to the mouth is bouncing around until you find the pile of fish. The stripers will move after a couple of drifts, so you constantly have to change your starting points to stay on top of them. They may move in or out, or north and south, and it is up to you to find them again.
Even though this blog mainly focused on the outgoing tide, the turn and the incoming tide can be very productive, particularly in the early season and into August. Same drill but reverse the drift, start outside the mouth, and drift into the river. You have to be aware of the tide lines and some awkward drifting, but it can be very productive following the same procedures as the outgoing. Now you are ready to catch the big girl!
That's pretty much the basics of drifting the mouth. Our third and final installment on drifting the mouth will be for our Paid Members. It will include high-level tips and tricks, situational fishing tricks, maximizing the bite, and other ways to fish the mouth without live bait. Most of this stuff has never been published anywhere and will help you catch the biggest fish of your trip!